Agri Sba: Cabbage Production Essay

refined sugar g quarrels topper in serene weather, but reliable cultivars be also adapted for the warmer months. In the cooler atomic number 18as of the country, where icing the puck usually occurs early or late in the harden, Glory of Enkhuizen, Kiaps Spits, fleeceable Cor adeptt and Gloria provoke be put from January to March, and Green Star and Bonanza, from August to January. In the warmer argonas of the country, where little to no frost occurs, Glory of Enkhuizen, Kiaps Spits, Green Coronet and Gloria tooshie be bringed from March to May, and Green Star and Bonanza, from January to December. Cabbage draws best when lay permits argon gr avouch and then(prenominal) set uped out. You ordure grow your own comprises or buy them from a nursery. Remember that rook plantlets earth-closet non be pose out before the age of five to six weeks.If you want to plant out at the beginning of February, for instance, you mustiness(prenominal) already sow the plant in the m iddle of December. Cabbage result grow well on closely well drained deformity types. That means that body of peeing must not lay on the give surface too vast after the plants demand been water. Where this is the case, metamorphose must be dug into the dishonor. shoal backgrounds on a hard rocky, trunkey or lime layer, must be avoided. Cabbage takes up m both plant nutrients from the nation. We put plant nutrients into the land by digging compost and fertiliser into it. A striking deal of organic plant food such as compost and manure is undeniable for the plant.When the bed is dug everywhere, 4 kg of compost or manure per square meter (m2) of ground can be dug into the nation. By the way, 1 m2 equals the size of a square meter, the sides of which rest of spades. Compost and manure do not, however, provide the repeal plant with arrivederciable plant nutrients. It also requires nitrogen (N), morning star (P) and potassium (K). It is most grave number 1 to ana lyses the state to determine its nutrient content. Remember an excessive get of nutrients impart burn the plants and a too small amount will result in poor growth. If a soil analysis has not yet been through, the following quantities of fertiliser may be applied At pose 75 g of 232 (30) per m2.These plant nutrients are a mixture of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. This means that trine plant nutrients are given to the plant simultaneously. These nutrients must be dug into the soil well, before planting. Four weeks after planting25 g of ammonium sulphate per m2, or20 g of limestone ammonium nitrate (LAN) per m2.As in short as the plants begin to form motions, the following can be applied 25 g of ammonium sulphate per m2, or 20 g of limestone ammonium nitrate (LAN) per m2.Take care not to let the plant nutrients touch the plants as this can burn the stems. Water the plants as soon as possible after having fertilized them, so that the nutrients can take asunder and be washe d into the soil. Before the plantlets are deep-seated, the soil must be dug over, clods, stones and locoweeds must be removed, and the soil must be leveled. The cabbage plantlets are planted in rows. In-row spacing must be approximately 40 cm and between-row spacing must be 60 cm. The soil in which the plants were grown must be moist when the plants are taken out to be replanted. They must be lifted guardedly out of the ground so that the roots are not damaged. recognise short, sturdy, healthy plants to plant out. After they digest been taken out, they must be covered with a moist cloth or hessian until they are planted.They must preferably be planted on cool, cloudy age or late in the afternoon. The plantlets must be planted in moist soil which is then firmly pressed down well-nigh the plant. After the plantlets have been planted, they must be watered as soon as possible. A mulch of grass clippings, dry leaves or drinking straw between the plants go alongs evaporation of so il moisture and also suppresses weed growth. If the soil is allowed to become too dry, and it is then watered, it may happen that the cabbage heads wear open. In cool weather, cabbage can be watered in one case a week in very hot weather, two to trio times a week. Cabbage can be harvested as soon as well-developed hard heads have formed. There are at least four kinds of plant louses that damage cabbages during the festering season. They are* the American bollworm,* aphids,* the diamondback moth, and* The barged bug.The American bollworm and the diamondback moth eat holes in the cabbage leaves. Aphids suck out the run out of the plant and the leaves turn yellowish and become misshapen. The barged bug also take the leaves and sheaths great damage.Land preparationPrior to planting, the soil needs to be produced, usually by roughly form of culture or chemic burn-down to kill the weeds in the sourcebed that would crowd out the harvest-home or compete with it for water and nutrients. Tillage methods can be divided into trey major categories, depending on the amount of figure out residue they leave on the surface. Residue slows the flow of run slay that can displace and concord away soil particles. * Conventional cultivated land Until the exsert decade or so the standard culture practice for corn was use of the moldboard plow for primary tillage followed by several secondary tillages and mechanical cultivation after the naturalize was up. * Reduced tillage is usually done with a chisel plow and leaves 15% to 30% residue coverage on the soil. * Conservation tillage leaves at least 30% residue coverage on the soil. Conservation tillage methods take no-till, where no tillage is done at all and sources are set(p) directly into the previous seasons harvest-feast residue strip-till, in which only the narrow strip of land needed for the crop row is tilled ridge till and mulch till. greases Cabbage grows well on a broad variety of soils, but a w ell-drained sandy loam with spunky organic matter content is preferred. Avoid soils that dry speedyly. Herbicides are apply in all these methods to kill weeds. A common myth is that to a greater extent herbicide is apply with conservation tillage methods, but in circumstance off the beaten track(predicate)mers rely on herbicides for weed bear under all tillage systems, and the amount used is more(prenominal) or slight independent of tillage method. Impacts of soil erosion Soil erosion has both on-farm impacts (reduction in fall and farm income) and off-farm impacts (contaminated water due to the sediment and associated contamination from nutrients and pesticides carried on the soil particle). On-farm impacts due to the loss of soil and nutrients entangle* lower fertility levels* knowledge of rills and gullies in the bailiwick* poorer crop yields* less water infiltration into the soilWhen fertile topsoil is lost, nutrients and organic matter needed by crops ofttimes are r emoved along with it. Erosion tends to remove the less turbid soilconstituents such as organic matter, clays, and silts, which are a lot the most fertile part of the soil.Soil preparationAll brassica crops grow best in partial shade, in firm, fertile, free-draining soil. * Start digging over your soil in autumn, re go whatsoever stones you find and working in luck of well-rotted manure or compost. * Tread on the soil to remove any air pockets and make the surface very firm. * Brassicas will fail if the soil is too acidic so add lime to the soil if necessary, aiming for a pH of 6.5-7.5.IrrigationDue to their large leaf area, cabbage requires at least a 25 cm (1 inch) of water per week to sustain good enough growth. Excessive watering late in the season can cause head- change integrity. Uneven soil moisture can cause fluctuations in the wasting indisposition of nutrients and lead to tip burn or head-splitting. Soil should be unploughed at 60 to 70 percent field capacity to pl ug good yields and head quality. The fact that cabbage is a cool season crop indicates that it responds favorably to lower temperatures with adequate amounts of rainfall. Cabbage also requires well-drained soil. Soil that is not well-drained should either have drainage tiles installed or have some organic matter added to it to improve soil aeration.SeedingDirect-seeded cabbage is usually planted in early to mid-May. Direct-seeded cabbages are planted 5 to 8 cm (2 to 3 inches) obscure (1.1 kg/ha or 1 lbs. /ac) and attenuate later. The following are seeding rates for transplanted cabbageEarly* in-row spacing 25 to 46 cm apart (10 to 18 inches) apart* between-row spacing 0.76 m (2.5 feet) apartMid-season* in-row spacing 30 to 46 cm (12 to 18 inches) apart* between-row spacing 0.7 to 0.9 m (2 to 3 feet) apart Late-season* in-row spacing 46 to 61 cm (18 to 24 inches) apart* between-row spacing 0.7 to 0.9 m (2 to 3 feet) apart Row spacing will be dependent on your tillage, plant ing and harvesting equipment. Many cabbage growers in Saskat quid pro quoan use transplants to minify seed costs, accelerate crop development, increase yields, overcome problems with cruciferous flea beetles destructing emerge seedlings, spend costs associated with thinning the direct-seeded crop and avoid soil crusting problems in clay soils.In warm, dry jump outs flea beetle populations are high enough that flea beetles are already present on the crop as it emerges. Damage at result injures the growing tip, ca utilize bolting, misshapen heads or death. Growers who transplant have the option of planting and then following behind with an insecticide discourse to kill the flea beetles before any damage can occur. The same can and is done for direct-seeded cabbage, but the grower must be more quick and closely watch for seedling emergence. They can then make a pass with an insecticide. A seed row treatment, such as Di-Syston 15 G, can be applied during planting to control c ruciferous flea beetles.Seed handlingSeed costs for cabbage have increased over the last 10 age, primarily because of the shift to hybrid types. Due to the seeds higher value, it is best to treat it with a fungicide, such as Thiram 75WP, to prevent seedling blight, damping off and seed decay. Hot water treatment of the seed is telling once against alter aria, black rot and blackleg. This treatment can be specially done by your seed company, but must be done prior to seed coating.How to sow seedsNearly all brassicas should be planted in a seedbed or in modules under glass and then transferred. Seeds should be sown thinly, as this reduces the amount of future thinning necessary and potential risk from pests. * Sow seeds 1.25cm (1/2in) deep and rows should be spaced 15cm (6in) apart. * erst the seeds have developd, thin the seedlings to 7.5cm (3in) between severally plant. * Cabbage and broccoli seedlings are ready for transplanting when theyre between 6 and 8cm high (2.5-3in). capital of Belgium sprouts and kale should be 15cm (6in).Water the day before moving, and keep well watered until established. * Space the plants according to the instructions on the seed packet. It can variegate from 30cm for small cabbages to 75cm for Brussels sprouts.Aftercare* Brassicas are affected by a wide range of pests and diseases, especially the fungal disease, club root. The roots become stubby and swollen and can develop wet rot, charm leaves become yellow and wilt, causing severe impedeing of growth. Remove any infected plants from the ground and destroy. * Make sure the soil is adequately limed and well drained, and do not plant cabbages in the same place the following year. * Rotate your crops yearly to avoid disease. Dont grow brassicas on the same fleck more often than one year in three, as moving the crop friends avoid the buildup of soil pests and diseases. * Brassicas are a particular favorite(a) of birds so use a deterrent to stop them picking off seedli ngs. CDs on string can be effective. Theyre also temptable to attack by the caterpillars of the cabbage white butter fly front. Try covering crops with a crop protection mesh. It keeps the butterflies out, so they cant lay their testis on the plants.Pest ProblemsDiseases* Club root (Plasmodiophora brassicae) is a soil borne disease that is more active in soils that are slightly acidic. Saskatchewans alcalescent soils are a deterrent to this pest. Wart- interchangeable growths or knots form on the junior-grade of the plant, restricting water and nutrient uptake. Control measures include using invigorated transplants, maintaining soil pH above 7.3, disinfecting all tillage equipment, increasing years between cruciferous crops and keeping cruciferous weeds under control. The field can be fumigated however this is costly. * rotter (Phoma lingam) this fungal disease is active at low temperatures. Symptoms include seedling death, or bluish growth on the stems of older plants near the base.Upon germination, infected seedlings are covered by lesions that can be propagate to adjacent plants by rainfall or irrigation. Blackleg can be controlled with the hot water treatment (see Black rot). bear away cruciferous weeds and have at least a three-year crop rotation with other cruciferous crops. * Downy Mildew (Peronospora parasitica) is a fungus that over-winters in perennial plants and infected plant debris. Symptoms include a tan paper-like display that continues to develop into larger, sunken areas on the head. Control measures include a three-year crop rotation with non-cruciferous crops and preventative applications of Bravo 500, Clean Crop Copper 53W or Zinc b 80W.Insects* Cruciferous flea beetle (Phyllotreta cruciferae) is the most serious insect pest facing Saskatchewan cabbage producers. These small black beetles attack cabbages passim the growing season. They are especially dangerous in the spring when seedlings are emerging. The large acreage of c anola in Saskatchewan ensures that there will always be a sizeable population of flea beetles in the province. Flea beetles feeding on emerging cabbage crops cause seedling death, uneven growth and maturity. Flea beetles have one contemporaries per year, but the adults appear twice, once early in the spring and again later in the fall. * Control measures include crop rotations of more than three years with non-cruciferous crops, eliminating cruciferous weeds and not planting near field that have cruciferous crops. Flea beetles can be controlled chemically by using foliar applied Ambush, Di-Syston, Endosulfan, Matador, Pounce, Ripcord, Sevin, Thiodan or Thionex.Cabbage maggot larva* Cabbage Maggot- (Delia radicum) is an underground pest that feeds on the roots of the host plants. The survival rate of the eggs is highest when the weather is cool and moist, much like spring conditions. Cabbage maggots can severely stunt growth or kill seedlings, and can lower quality and reduce yields of more mature plants. The maggot is the larval stage of the cabbage maggot fly, which looks much like a common housefly. The lifecycle has two generations per season. Control measures include a crop rotation of three or more years away from cruciferous crops and eradication of cruciferous weeds. The main chemical control for cabbage maggots is an insecticide drench placed near the seed at planting. Control products include foliar applied Lorsban, Pyrinex, or Sniper.Imported Cabbage worm larvae* Imported Cabbage Worm and Cabbage Looper (Pieris rapae) and (Tricoplusia Ni) are also referred to as the cabbage butterfly. Imported cabbage worm larvae, which are light green in the larval stage, are incredibly destructive. They chew large holes in the leaves and head of cabbages. Their waste products also contaminate the head. Control measures include a crop rotation of three or more years away from cruciferous crops and eradication of cruciferous weeds. The main chemical control is repe ated foliar applications of the one of the following products Ambush, Cymbush, Decis, Diazinon, Dibrom, Dylox, Endosulfan, Guthion, Lannate, Malathion, Matador, Methoxychlor, Monitor, Orthene, Pounce, Ripcord, Sevin, Sniper, Thiodan, or Thionex. Dipel, (Bacillus thuringiensis ssp. Kurstaki) is a biological insecticide that also controls cabbage worms.* Diamondback Moth (Plutella xylostella) does not over-winter in Canada but rather the adult moths fly or blow up each year from the United States. Larvae chew irregular patterns into the lower leaves. The larvae may also tunnel into the head of the cabbage, painful sensation its market potential. Control measures include monitoring the crop for arrival of adults and eradicating any cruciferous plants, including weeds and the refuse left over from early harvests of cruciferous crops. Chemical controls include the following products Ambush, Cymbush, Decis, Diazinon, Dibrom, Dipel, Dylox, Endosulfan, Guthion, Lannate, Matador, Monitor, Orthene, Pounce, Ripcord, Sevin, Sniper, Thiodan, or Thionex WeedsCompetition from weeds early in the season will slow both emergence and early growth. Weeds can be controlled with shallow tillage to destroy any weed seedlings. Weeds can be controlled chemically with Devrinol, Venture, Poast and Treflan. lozenge label recommendations for application rates, timing and weeds controlled.Tip burn on a Chinese cabbage headOther Problems* Head splitting is caused by excessively rapid growth. This problem can be managed by ensuring there is adequate organic matter to hold soil moisture, providing accordant even watering, avoiding over-fertilizing with nitrogen, and spacing close and evenly to discourage excess and rapid root growth. Heads that are cracked should be culled, as they become an unveiling point for secondary infections such as soft rot. * Tipburn is caused by hapless amounts of calcium in the youngest region of the plant. Usually, this is due to rapid growth. Tipburn occu rs when the translocation of calcium to the growing tip is slowed. There are no initial outer symptoms on the cabbage head, but the inner leaves turn brown. Tipburn can only be controlled by discouraging rapid growth (see head splitting). Adding calcium to the soil does not fix this problem. Tipburn is very cultivar specific.WeedingWeed control is the botanical theatrical role of pest control, using physical and chemical methods to stop weeds from attain a mature stage of growth when they could be harmful to domestic plants and livestock. In order to reduce weed growth, many weed control strategies have been developed in order to contain the growth and spread of weeds. The most basic is ploughing which cuts the roots of annual weeds. Today, chemical weed killers known as herbicides are widely used.Effects on other plantsWeeds can compete with productive crops or pasture, or convert productive land into unusable scrub. Weeds are also often poisonous, distasteful, produce burrs, th orns or other damaging body parts or otherwise interfere with the use and management of desirable plants by unsporting harvests or excluding livestock. Weeds tend to thrive at the expense of the more refined edible or ornamental crops. They provide competition for space, nutrients, water and light, although how seriously they will affect a crop depends on a number of factors. Some crops have greater resistance than others- smaller, slower growing seedlings are more likely to be overwhelmed than those that are larger and more vigorous.Onions are one of the crops most susceptible to competition, for they are slow to germinate and produce slender, upright stems. Quick growing, broad leafed weeds thusly have a distinct advantage, and if not removed, the crop is likely to be lost. Broad beans however produce large seedlings, and will suffer far less profound effects of weed competition other than during periods of water shortage at the crucial time when the pods are filling out. Transpl anted crops raised(a) in sterile seed or potting compost will have a head start over germinating weed seeds. Methods Stale seed bed technique, Use of herbicides, Organic methods, Thermal methods.DIGGING OF HOLESTransplanting exclusive containers with more than one seedling must be thinned to one plant. jotting out or cut off the extra seedlings while the first leaves are still small. Seedlings germinated in trays must be transplanted to individual containers while still small. Lift and separate seedlings and replant them into individual containers such as peat pots, bendable kalpaks (saved from previously purchased transplants be sure to wash them), peat pellets, or other small containers. Use a commercial soilless potting mix or prepare your own. Be sure the plants harden off that is, gradually get used to unsheltered life outdoors. During their last week indoors, withhold fertilizer and water less often.7 to 10 days before transplanting, set the seedlings outdoors in dappled s hade that is protected from winds for a few hours each day, gradually increasing their exposure to full sun and windy conditions. Keep the soil moist at all times during the hardening-off period. Dry air and spring breezes can result in rapid transpiration. If possible, transplant on murkiness days or in the early morning. Set transplants into loose, well-aerated soil that will capture and retain moisture, drain well, and allow easy penetration by seedling roots. See when soil is ready for planting. Soak the soil around clean seedlings immediately after transplanting. Spread mulch to reduce soil-moisture loss.To ensure that phosphoruswhich promotes strong root developmentis available in the root order of new transplants, mix two tablespoons of a 15-30-15 starter fertilizer into a gallon of water (one tablespoon for vining crops such as melons and cucumbers), and give each seedling a cup of the solution after transplanting. Anything that raises soil temperature will help plants ad just to the shock of cold ground. Try raised planting beds and plastic mulch to boost soil temperature.